Chalkida

_{Chalkida and Evripos bridge, from S}

Chalkida, the vibrant capital of Evvoia, stands at one of the most remarkable natural and strategic locations in Greece: the narrow Evripos Strait, where the island nearly touches the mainland. This liminal geography shaped Chalkida’s destiny from the first human settlements to the present day. Through antiquity, the Roman and Byzantine periods, Frankish and Ottoman rule, and into the modern Greek state, Chalkida remained a crossroads.

Early Settlement and Bronze Age Origins

The earliest habitation at Chalkida dates to the Neolithic and Early Bronze Age, but the city truly emerges during the Mycenaean period (14th–12th century BC). Positioned near fertile plains and commanding the strait, Chalkida (known to Homer as Chalcis) grew as one of the two dominant cities of Evvoia alongside Eretria. Its name likely derives from chalkos (copper/bronze), suggesting early metalworking activity—an industry that indeed flourished in the region.

By the 10th and 9th centuries BC, Chalkida became a leading center of maritime expansion. Evvoian Greeks from Chalkida and Eretria founded colonies across the Aegean and all the way to southern Italy, Sicily, and the coasts of Macedonia. Chalkida’s settlers played key roles in founding Cumae, the earliest Greek colony in Italy, which would later give rise to Naples. Through these ventures, Chalkida influenced the spread of the Greek alphabet; it is the Chalkidian script that formed the basis for the Etruscan and ultimately the Latin alphabet.

The Archaic and Classical Periods (8th–4th century BC)

Chalkida’s early prosperity led to conflict at home. The famous Lelantine War (8th century BC), one of the earliest recorded Greek interstate conflicts, pitted Chalkida against nearby Eretria over control of the fertile Lelantine plain. Though ancient accounts differ, it seems Chalkida emerged with the upper hand.

During the archaic and classical periods, Chalkida aligned politically with different powers at different times. Under pressure from Athens, Evvoia became a hotly contested region. During the Persian Wars, Chalkidians fought at Artemisium and Salamis, yet after the wars the city fell under Athenian dominance. In 506 BC, Athens expelled the Chalkidian aristocracy and redistributed their lands to Athenian settlers—a rare example of Athenian cleruchy imposed so close to Attica.

Still, Chalkida preserved a strong civic identity and recovered part of its autonomy over time. It contributed to the naval and trading networks of the 5th and 4th centuries BC and maintained regional significance until the rise of Macedon.

Hellenistic and Roman Chalkida (4th century BC – AD 4th century)

After Philip II’s conquest of Greece in the mid-4th century BC, Chalkida entered a new era as the Macedonians understood the city’s strategic value. The strait was the key to controlling movement between northern and southern Greece, and Chalkida served as a Macedonian garrison—one of the “fetters of Greece,” according to ancient writers.

Under Roman rule (after 146 BC), Chalkida enjoyed relative peace and economic stability. Its port activity, shipbuilding, and trade revived strongly. The city was connected culturally and economically with Corinth, Athens, and Asia Minor. The Romans also noted the strange tidal currents of the Evripos, which Aristotle himself had attempted to study shortly before his death in Chalkida in 322 BC.

Early Christianity and the Byzantine Era

Christianity arrived early in Chalkida, likely by the 4th century AD. The city became the seat of a bishopric and later a metropolis. Despite earthquakes, invasions, and pirate raids—frequent threats along the Aegean coast—Chalkida remained a fortified and relatively populous Byzantine town. Its control of the strait made it continuously valuable.

In the mid-9th century and again in the 12th century, Chalkida suffered damage from both Slavic raids and Norman fleets, yet it bounced back each time. Byzantine chroniclers refer to it frequently as a military and naval posts.

Frankish, Venetian, and Catalan Chalkida – “Negroponte” (1205–1470)

With the Fourth Crusade (1204) and the fragmentation of Byzantium, Chalkida fell into the hands of Frankish lords and soon after into Venetian influence. During this period it became known as Negroponte, a name derived from Evripos → Egripos → Negroponte through medieval Italian linguistic evolution.

For more than two centuries, Venetian Chalkida was one of the most important strongholds in the eastern Mediterranean. The Venetians transformed the city into a fortress island by building massive sea walls, towers, and the original Castro (Castello Rosso). They also deepened and engineered parts of the strait, improving the drawbridge that controlled passage between Evvoia and the mainland.

In 1390, the Catalans briefly took hold of the region, followed again by Venetian reinstatement. Chalkida during this time was a bustling administrative and trade hub, exporting agricultural products, timber, and ironwork.

Ottoman Period (1470–1833)

In 1470, Sultan Mehmed II launched a major assault on Chalkida. After a brutal siege, the city fell to the Ottomans, marking one of the final Venetian losses in Greece until the 17th century. Under Ottoman rule, Chalkida—known now also by the Turkish form Eğriboz—retained its importance as a fortress and administrative center.

The city grew into a multicultural port, home to Muslims, Greeks, Jews, and later some Armenians. Trade across the strait and along the Aegean revived. The Evripos fortifications were strengthened, and the Ottomans maintained a solid garrison there for centuries.

Chalkida remained under Ottoman rule until the Greek War of Independence. Though there were uprisings in Evvoia, the city did not fall to the revolutionaries. It was incorporated into the Kingdom of Greece only in 1833, after diplomatic settlement.

Modern Chalkida (19th century – today)

In modern Greece, Chalkida quickly developed as the administrative, commercial, and cultural center of Evvoia. The famous old iron bridge (1896), designed with French engineering, became the city’s iconic feature, replacing earlier wooden drawbridges.

Throughout the 20th century, Chalkida expanded with industry, maritime trade, and infrastructure projects. Yet the city preserved layers of its past—Ottoman minarets, Venetian walls, Byzantine churches, and ancient ruins—woven into the urban fabric.

Today, Chalkida is known for its vibrant waterfront, its seafood tavernas along the strait, and of course the mysterious tidal currents of the Evripos, still fascinating residents and visitors alike.

Sights

Old Bridge of Chalkida (Evripos Bridge)

• To witness the famous tidal phenomenon of the Evripos Strait, where currents change direction several times daily—something Aristotle himself tried to explain.

Karababas Fortress (Kanithos Castle)

• A 17th-century Ottoman fortress built by Venetian engineer Gerolamo Galgano. Offers one of the best panoramic views over Chalkida, the strait, and central Evvoia.

The Red House (Kokkino Spiti)

• An elegant late-19th-century neoclassical mansion right on the waterfront, a beloved landmark of Chalkida.

Emir Zade Mosque

• A well-preserved Ottoman mosque (15th–16th century) highlighting the multicultural layers of Chalkida’s past. Today it hosts cultural events.

Archaeological Museum of Chalkida

• Exhibits from across Evvoia, including Mycenaean pottery, Archaic votives, and Roman statuary—an excellent way to understand the island’s deep past.

Chalkida’s Waterfront (Paralia)

• The liveliest promenade in Evvoia. Ideal for a walk, coffee, or seafood with views of the strait.

Roman Aqueduct Remains

• Reminders of the extensive Roman hydraulic engineering that once supplied the city and surrounding region.

Agia Paraskevi Cathedral

• The main church of Chalkida, with roots in the medieval period and a mix of architectural elements from Byzantine to modern times.

Local Tastes

Fresh Seafood from the Evripos Strait
Chalkida is famous across Greece for its seafood tradition. The tidal currents bring nutrient-rich waters that support abundant fish and shellfish. Look for:

• Gavros and sardines grilled or marinated
• Grilled octopus dried in the sun
• Sea bream, sea bass, and red mullet from local fishermen

Ouzo and Meze by the sea
Chalkida’s paralia has a long culture of ouzo mezedopolia. Expect small, flavorful plates such as:

• Fried kalamari
• Shrimp saganaki
• Tiganites garides (fried shrimp)
• Octopus in vinegar

Local Meat Dishes (Central Evvoia tradition)
Away from the coast, the region around Chalkida is known for hearty meat dishes:

• Kontosouvli and souvlaki
• Kokoretsi during festive periods
• Lamb in the oven with herbs from Mount Dirfys

Evvoian Cheeses and Dairy
Chalkida markets often feature excellent local cheeses from the interior of the island:

• Karystini graviera
• Tylikti (a cylindrical soft cheese)
• Mastelo-style local variations Perfect with bread, olives, and local wine.

Sweets of Chalkida

• Karababas halva – a specialty tied to the area near the fortress
• Galaktoboureko and samali, which many locals swear are the best in central Evvoia
• Loukoumades near the waterfront, especially on weekends

Wines and Spirits of Evvoia
Evvoia has an increasingly strong wine profile. In Chalkida you will find labels from the Psachna–Dirfys area and northern Evvoia:

• Savatiano, Roditis, and Assyrtiko
• Local tsipouro from small family distillers