Kyllini waterfront
At the far western edge of Ileias, where the Peloponnese reaches out toward the Ionian Sea, lies Kyllini — a land of thermal springs, fertile plains, and an ancient harbor that for millennia connected Greece with the western Mediterranean. Today it is best known as the port to Zakynthos and Kefalonia, yet its past runs deep, interwoven with myth, classical glory, medieval power, and modern renewal.
Antiquity – From the Kingdom of Elis to Ancient Glarentza
The region of Kyllini was already inhabited in prehistoric times, as shown by scattered remains near modern Kastro and the nearby village of Loutra. Its earliest organized settlement arose under the influence of ancient Elis, whose kings controlled the fertile lands of western Peloponnese and the famous sanctuary of Olympia.
Kyllini’s ancient harbor, known in antiquity as Cyllene , served as the main maritime outlet of Elis. Ancient writers such as Strabo and Pausanias mention it as a significant port, with temples dedicated to Hermes, who, according to myth, was born on nearby Mount Cyllene in Arcadia. From this port, the Eleians traded goods, timber, wine, and agricultural products with the Ionian islands and Italy.
During the Classical period, Cyllene became strategically important as a naval base. Thucydides records that the Spartans and Athenians both sought to control it during the Peloponnesian War, since whoever held Cyllene commanded the sea routes to the Ionian and the western colonies. It was here that fleets gathered before sailing to Sicily or Corcyra, and where news of victories or disasters first reached mainland Greece.
After the decline of Elis in the Hellenistic period, the harbor lost much of its importance. Roman rule brought stability, and Cyllene remained a functioning port of the Roman province of Achaia, connected by road to Olympia and Patras. Yet, as coastal trade shifted, much of its population moved inland. Earthquakes and sedimentation gradually altered the coastline, and ancient Cyllene slowly disappeared beneath the sands.
Byzantine and Frankish Eras – The Glory of Glarentza
In the Byzantine era, the port revived modestly, though pirate raids and shifting sands limited its prosperity. Its true rebirth came in the early 13th century, after the Fourth Crusade (1204), when the Frankish Principality of Achaea was established in the Peloponnese. The Franks recognized the harbor’s strategic potential and built a fortified town and port nearby, which they called Glarentza (Clarentia) — near the modern village of Kastro.
Glarentza quickly became one of the most important ports in medieval Greece. It served as the main maritime gateway of the Principality, exporting wine, silk, and agricultural products to Italy and France, while importing weapons, textiles, and luxury goods. The coinage of Glarentza, known for its fine mint, circulated throughout the Frankish states of Greece.
At the same time, on the hill overlooking the port, the Franks erected the mighty Chlemoutsi Castle (Château Clermont) around 1220 under Prince Geoffrey II of Villehardouin. It was both a symbol and a safeguard of Frankish authority — a perfect specimen of Crusader military architecture, with thick walls, rounded towers, and a commanding view of the Ionian Sea and the plains of Elis. Chlemoutsi remains one of the best-preserved castles in Greece, a silent witness to centuries of conflict and ambition.
Late Medieval and Ottoman Periods
As the Byzantines gradually regained strength, the Peloponnese fell again under Greek control after 1430, only to be conquered by the Ottomans a few decades later. Glarentza was devastated and abandoned — its harbor silted up, its walls crumbling. Travelers of the 16th and 17th centuries describe ruins and fishermen’s huts where once stood the vibrant port of the Franks.
During the Venetian–Ottoman wars, Kyllini alternated between the two powers, but it never recovered its medieval prosperity. Its importance, however, as a landing place for pilgrims and merchants sailing between Italy and the Peloponnese, ensured its survival as a modest harbor.
Modern Times – The Port of the Ionian Islands
The Greek War of Independence (1821) brought new turbulence to the region. The castle of Chlemoutsi changed hands several times, but after liberation, Kyllini entered a new era. The establishment of the modern port of Kyllini in the 19th century restored its maritime role, now serving as the gateway to the Ionian Islands. Ferries to Zakynthos and Kefalonia revived the ancient sea routes that had once connected the Eleians to Magna Graecia
At the same time, the thermal springs of Loutra Kyllinis, known since antiquity, were developed into a spa resort. Archaeological excavations revealed remains of ancient baths and sanctuaries dedicated to Asklepios and Aphrodite, confirming the site’s continuous use as a healing center.
